Showing posts with label Scotland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Scotland. Show all posts

18 July 2024

A change in plans

My 2024 trip to England and Scotland could have been better. My DSLR camera stopped working several days into the Yorkshire Dales portion of the trip. I had to rely on my cell phone for taking pictures. Not only were the pictures inferior, but it was a constant struggle to maintain charge on my phone. For reasons unknown, my back-up battery packs were failing to charge. Eventually, I figured out how to make the phone last longer, but it was still a struggle to maintain charge. I needed my phone not only to take pictures, but to navigate public transport. This became a major cause of angst to me.

My week in the Yorkshire Dales was enjoyable. At the conclusion of this portion of the trip. I took an early morning train to Edinburgh. After spending the day exploring the city, I came down with Covid. The progression of symptoms was fast:  respiratory, GI, and fever. I was unable to go on my five day tour of the North Highlands. Not only did I lose the money I had already spent, but this was the part of the trip I had been most looking forward to. Instead, I relocated to a hotel in Falkirk, outside of Edinburgh. It was an expensive taxi ride (from my Airbnb in Edinburgh), but Falkirk turned out to be a good place to recover from Covid. The people at the hotel were very nice to me, even bringing me breakfast one morning.

The Park Hotel in Falkirk where I recovered from Covid.

I didn't leave my hotel room much for three days. Luckily, I was within walking distance of the pharmacy and grocery store. I met two nice nurses who showed me where the pharmacy was. After I was a little better (fever broke) I started to venture out. I visited a few places including Callendar House, Stirling Castle, the Kelpies, and the Falkirk Wheel. I didn't feel great and it wasn't as good as visiting the Highlands, but at least I salvaged something from my trip (to Scotland). After the four days in Falkirk, I returned (via train and bus) to the same Airbnb (in Edinburgh) for two nights. I was able to go on my Outlander Tour. I still didn't feel the best, but I enjoyed the tour. Ironically, our guide's name was Jamie. He was great tour guide and wanna-be DJ. We visited Lallybroch, Castle Leoch, Blackness Castle, Linlithgow Palace, and Culross.

The final leg of my journey was a day layover in Paris. I had a very early flight out of Edinburgh. It had sounded like a good idea when I planned it, but turned out not to be. I hadn't known the Olympics were so close when I booked the stopover. The first sign of chaos was when I couldn't exchange any money because all the computers were down. I took a train into the city, was given bad advice, and got off in the middle of nowhere. I ended up taking a cab to the Eiffel Tower. None of the cabbies spoke English. 

There were police everywhere in the city and a lot of barriers near the Eiffel Tower. I got on the subway again and found out where to catch my hop-on, hop-off "Toot" bus. The bus stop was near the Arc de Triumph. It was cool to see this classic landmark. I envisioned victorious Allied troops driving through the arch. I didn't enjoy the bus tour too much, as it was miserably hot, there wasn't any decent commentary (on what we were seeing), and the bus didn't pass by any of the famous landmarks (I had wanted to get off at the Louvre). No doubt the bus route was altered by the Olympics. When I finally got off the bus (after the two hour drive through the city), I was anxious to get back to my hotel (near the airport). I was ready to go home. I could knock Paris off my bucket list. It could have been better, but at least I saw a few things and got to experience Paris.


I got to see a few things in Paris.

When I boarded the first train, it was wall-to-wall people. It was hot and I could barely stand it. I just needed to go a few stops. A few people got off at the first stop, and it was more bearable. But then the train failed to go. There was an announcement (in French). I asked someone to translate it for me. They said it would be 10 to 20 minutes before the train left for the next stop. After a few minutes, there was another announcement (in French). The subway wasn't going anywhere anytime soon. I needed to get to the airport (where my hotel was). My translators said to follow them. They'd direct me to the right train.

After walking what seemed like forever underground, we boarded another train. We got off at the first stop, and they told me which train to take to get to the airport. When I got to the platform for my train, I learned that there were power issues and the trains weren't going anywhere anytime soon. I went above ground. I was in a large train station. I could feel my pulse racing. How was I going to get to my hotel? I decided my best option would be to take a taxi to my hotel. It was an expensive ($100) taxi ride with a grumpy cab driver, but eventually I got to my hotel. My nerves settled. I had a nice dinner (pizza and a couple of cold cokes) and conversation with a fellow American traveler. My hotel room was very nice. I slept uninterrupted for 10 hours. My flight home the next day went without a glitch. 

The Royal Mile

Before I got Covid, I was able to tour Edinburgh, for a day. A day in a big city is usually enough for me, though I have to admit I could have used more time in this splendid city. I had taken an early morning train from Northallerton (in the Yorkshire Dales) and arrived at the Waverly train station around 9 am. After finding a place to stow my luggage (not easy) for the day, I set out to tour the capitol of Scotland. Fortunately, Waverly Station was near the Royal Mile. The Royal Mile is the main thoroughfare of Old Town Edinburgh. At one end is Edinburgh Castle. The Palace of Holyroodhouse is at the other. I toured both, took a bus to get around.


Traditional "Scots" mile, 1.13 miles
Scottish bagpiper

I saw lots of "closes" along the Royal Mile. There are over 250 closes in Edinburgh. A close is a British and Scottish term for a short street or cul-de-sac that ends in a dead end. It often refers to a private, gated, or quiet residential street, and in Scotland, it can specifically describe a narrow, enclosed alley or entrance to a tenement. The term derives from the fact that many of these dead-end alleys were closed off at night. I'm sure each one has its history.

Writer's Court

Named after an apothecary
Historic location of a printing house

Historical marker

There is a 10-foot bronze statue of Adam Smith on the Royal Mile. Adam Smith is an 18th century Scottish economist and philosopher who is widely regarded as the  "father of economics" or more specifically the "father of capitalism."  He lived and died in Edinburgh. I bet he would be deeply frustrated by today's modern form of capitalism, with all its poverty and concentration of wealth. No doubt he's rolling over in his grave.


Statue to Adam Smith 

I encountered several bagpipe players. The Great Highland Bagpipe is Scotland's national instrument and is recognized by its powerful sound, tartan-covered bag, and role in military and cultural traditions. Next time (has to be in August), I'd like to go to a performance of the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, which features lots of bagpipe music. I do like bagpipes and kilts.


Another bagpipe player

Edinburgh Castle

Soon after getting my bearings, I headed towards Edinburg Castle. Edinburgh Castle is one of the major attractions in Edinburgh. It dominates the landscape, perched high upon Castle Rock. The castle's strategic advantage is obvious, though it suffered many sieges during its 1,100 year history. It goes without saying that Edinburgh Castle played a prominent role in Scottish history. It was home to Scottish kings and queens for many centuries, and like many castles, served many functions over the years.





Entrance to the castle

Guard shacks

Inside the castle grounds

Up on the rocks

Old medieval canon

New barracks
Statue of Douglas Haig, WWI war hero

One o'clock gun

Edinburgh Castle houses  many historical displays and exhibits, including a prisoner of war museum.


Life as a POW
Sleeping area

Prison doors
View from the castle

Palace of Holyroodhouse

After touring Edinburgh Castle, I boarded a hop-on, hop-off bus. I enjoyed the drive through the city, learning about various places I might like to visit. I got off at the bottom end of the Royal Mile. I bought a ticket to tour Holyrood Palace or Holyroodhouse, the official residence of the British Monarch in Scotland. 

Palace of Holyroodhouse

The Royals

The Monarch spends one week at the palace each summer (what a waste!). Fortunately, I wasn't there during "Royal Week" so I was able to tour the palace, abbey, and park. I took a guided tour, with a headset. You weren't allowed to taking any pictures inside the palace (too bad).


c. 1671 - 1675
Entrance
Close-up of towers

The fountain located in the palace yard was based on the design of the fountain built for James V at Linlithgow Palace. It is a 19th century replica of a 17th century fountain.


Queen Victoria's fountain, c. 1860s

The Quadrangle (or central courtyard)

Arches

Full bloom

Towers, c. 1528-1532

Holyrood Abbey is a ruined abbey. It was founded in 1128. During the 15th century, the guesthouse of the abbey was developed into a royal residence. The abbey church was used as a parish church until the 17th century and has been ruined since the 18th century. The word Holyrood is equivalent to "Holy Cross."


Holyrood Abbey, founded 1128
Abbey ruins

Holyrood Palace is surrounded by 10 acres of gardens. Arthur's seat is in view of Holyrood Palace. I didn't have time to climb it. Maybe, next time. It is an extinct volcano that is the main peak of the group of hills in Edinburgh. It is know for its panoramic views of the city and beyond. There are many legends surrounding Arthur's Seat, including that it was one of the locations of Camelot, the castle and court of King Arthur. The hill rises to a height of 822 feet. 


Palace Gardens

Arthur's Seat

Princes Street Gardens

I got off the bus at Princes Street. Princes Street offered spectacular views of Edinburgh Castle. I meandered around the area for awhile taking pictures. Besides views of the castle, there were beautiful gardens and many historic buildings. 


Edinburgh Castle

Buildings overlooking the Princes Street gardens
Princes Street Gardens

Part of the museum in Old Town

St. Cuthbert's Church, c. 1892-94

"The Call" is a statue that stands in tribute to Scots who died in the First World War. The memorial was donated by Scottish-Americans to honor Scottish soldiers.


Scottish American Memorial, c. 1927

Gardens along wall

Bum was a beloved, 19th-century stray St. Bernard-Spaniel mix in San Diego. Known for his independent spirit, he roamed the city as a town mascot. His bronze statue serves as a monument to the sister-city relationship between San Diego, California, and Edinburgh, Scotland.


Statue of Bum the dog, c. 2007

Wojtek was an orphaned Syrian brown bear adopted by Polish soldiers in Iran during WWII. Enlisted as a private to receive official rations, he famously carried heavy artillery shells during battle. Several prominent bronze statues honor his incredible story, including two in Scotland. The statue of Wojtek serves as a poignant reminder of the close ties between Poland and Scotland forged during World War II. Wojtek died in 1963 at the age of 22 (in the Edinburgh Zoo).

Statue to Wojtek, the Soldier Bear, c. 2017

The large Celtic cross in Princes Street Gardens honors Dean Ramsay, a popular Scottish clergyman. The cross sits exactly over his grave and stands more than 26-feet high. It was erected in 1879. Not sure many other crosses sit in such a beautiful setting.


Dean Ramsay Memorial Cross, c. 1879

Great view of the castle

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Post created 12 May 2026
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