The Baalands

The Highlands: Scotland 2.0

After I had to cancel my 2024 tour of the Highlands (5 days) due to Covid, I was determined to schedule another tour, this time a longer one. So, I did. I booked the 9-day Rabbies tour: Isle of Skye, Iona, Mull, and the Orkney Isles.

Map of our travels

It was actually two tours back-to-back. Two different tour guides. Different people each part. Seven of us did the whole 9-day tour. Since I didn't have anyone to travel with for this trip, I decided to try a group tour (16 people). There were pros and cons with this decision.

Small group tour

Cows and sheep, everywhere

They lift this stone during their local Highland Games.

Scotland is very dog friendly. The most popular breed is the Border Collie, native to the border of Scotland and England. Ty would have loved Scotland. Lots of water to play in. Big open spaces. He would have been welcome on the ferries and beaches, probably other places, too. Too bad there isn't a way to take him on these international trips. He'll have to settle for our 5 day dog trips, maybe Newfoundland.

Dog friendly

Traveling with a group

For my trip to the Scottish Highlands, I chose to take a 9-day Rabbies tour that included Isle of Skye, Iona, Mull, and the Orkney Isles. It was actually two tours in one. Halfway through (in Inverness), we switched guides/drivers, said goodbye to some of our travel mates, and welcomed nine new people for the journey north.

First group with tour guide Dave (3rd from left, back)

We traveled in a passenger van that seated 16 people. The seats were narrow, but otherwise comfortable. The first group of travelers included 5 solo travelers, including myself, and people from Australia, China, and Germany, as well as the US. The US travelers had diverse backgrounds, including ethnicity, e.g., Singapore, India, and China/Vietnam. The second group included eight Americans (from the South) who already knew each other, as well as a nice widow lady from New Zealand.

Second group with tour guide Andrew (R)

We had two good tour guides/drivers. The guide for the first half of the tour was Dave. I really liked him. He had a bold, assertive personality. He was an exceptional guide, really knew his history. Andrew was the guide for the second half of the tour. He was more soft spoken and low-key. In his spare time, Andrew liked to sit on the beach and do nothing. Dave liked to climb mountains. That sums up how different they were.

Stopped along Loch Ness (no Nessy!)

Seven of us did the whole 9-day tour and developed a good rapport. Overall, I preferred the people from the first half of the tour. The Indian couple (from California) seated in front of the picture below were especially nice. Hillery, a young Chinese/Vietnamese women from LA, was very sweet. Avrin (sp?), an anesthesiologist originally from Singapore, was interesting and outgoing.

Our last night together

The Australian couple raised sheep (Dorpers) and were extremely likable. From the first group, there were two recently divorced ladies (Sam from Chicago and Esther from Iowa), traveling solo, who were great travel mates. Their presence was missed the second half.

Selfie at Eileen Donan castle
(L-R, Avrin, Sam, me, Hillery, and Esther)

Staying in the Highlands

When I signed up for the 9-day tour of the Highlands with Rabbies, I had two choices for accommodations: hotel or bed and breakfast. I chose the latter. Not only are B&B's cheaper, but they are more personal. I'm not sure why I was booked into a hotel in Kirkwall (Orkney) for two nights.

Where I stayed

Alltavona Guest House (2 nights in Oban)

My room was lovely

Hillview Bed & Breakfast (2 nights in Plockton)

Another lovely room

Braeside Guest House (1 night in Inverness)

I had three beds to choose from.

Breakfast table

Albert Hotel (2 nights in Kirkwall)

Not as nice as the B&B's

Harbour House B&B (1 night in Ullapool)

For the first and last nights of my trip I stayed in Edinburgh. I chose a youth hostel (the CoDE) on the Royal Mile (in Parliament Square), near the Adam Smith statue. It was a sleeping pod (capsule), with shared bathrooms and other spaces. A hostel was a new experience for me, though it was similar to the City Hub, where Lara and I stayed last year in Reykjavik.

The CoDE (1st and last night in Edinburgh)

The CoDE was inside a 19th century former courthouse and jail in the heart of Edinburgh's Old Town. Besides price, I chose it for its location; it was close to the castle. I was attending the Military Tattoo (in the castle) and didn't want to have to walk far after the performance. My room (all female) had eight sleeping pods. I had a top bunk on the first night, a bottom bunk on the last night. All in all, it was a pleasant place to stay. The pod offered privacy, the bed was comfy, and the place was quiet. And, did I mention, convenient?

Old jail

My sleeping pod (capsule)

Eating in the Highlands

The food in the Highlands was decent. I didn't know what langoustines were before this trip. Now, they're one of my favorite foods. Langoustines are crustaceans, smaller than lobsters but bigger than shrimp. I had them on sandwiches (subs). They were fresh like the rest of the seafood. Unfortunately, I don't think I can get them (easily) in the US. They're only caught in the North Atlantic on the European side.

Langoustine sub

Seafood sub, with langoustines

I had a variety of meals, including pizza a couple of times (so-so). Sometimes, I ate with others; sometimes, by myself. In Inverness, I purchased my meal from the grocery store. I was disappointed that I didn't get to try haggis. None of the B&Bs offered it. I'm told the hotels did. I had ice cream several times. Ice cream is good everywhere!

Pork belly

Spicy pasta

Food was generally expensive, even more so than Iceland. Fortunately, you didn't have to tip, though I left a big tip (per their suggestion) when I had dinner from my friends from Virginia Tech, who had relocated to Skye (in retirement). I don't know why Americans think our tipping culture is worth pushing on the rest of the world. It's so out of hand.

Orkney ice cream

Inveraray Castle and Gardens

We stopped in Inveraray for lunch and a quick visit. Inveraray Castle was a moderate walk from town. I didn't have time to tour the castle, but I paid the admittance fee so I could walk around the gardens. It was money well spent.

Inveraray Castle, c. 1741

Inveraray Castle was built in 1741 and is one of the earliest examples of Gothic Revival architecture. It replaced an earlier 15th century castle. The castle has been the seat of the Dukes of Argyll, chiefs of Clan Campbell, since the 18th century. The castle gained a modern audience when it appeared in a 2012 episode of Downton Abbey.