Two locks

It was a picture-perfect, early fall day. Ty and I went to Dam 5 of the C&O Canal for a hike (walk). Dam 5 is currently under construction and was fenced off. There was a detour around the lockhouse, to get to the towpath. We headed in the direction of Locks 45 and 46. We walked farther than we had before, past the cliff. After awhile, the path opened up to Lock 46 and Lockhouse 46. There was also construction at Lock 46. The lockhouse was boarded up. While it appears well-preserved, it's not one you can stay at. 

Detour at Dam 5 Lockhouse 45 (such vivid colors!)

Blue waters of the Potomac

My hiking buddy Ty

Cliff ledge

Member of the Aster family

Lock 45

Steep limestone cliffs

Locks 45 and 46 were collectively known as "Two Locks." The pair is situated in an area where steep limestone cliffs along the Potomac River made digging a canal channel nearly impossible and definitely too expensive. Instead engineers used Dam 5 to back up the Potomac River and create a calm channel (called the slackwater) where the boats could safety travel. Lock 46 served as a transition point where mules switched from the river towpath back onto the canal towpath. There are structural remains of the historic mule bridge at Lock 46.

Lockhouse 46

Arched culvert at Lock 46

Lock 46

A scenic path along the cliffs

Honeysuckle (invasive) berries

Danger Dam!

Ty hanging out at Lock 46

Shelf fungi growing on a dead log

Gray rock -- no more graffiti

Dead logs

Peace

River access for Ty

Civil War Virginia

Forty-three percent of American Civil War battles were fought in the state of Virginia. The first land battle was fought in Virginia: First Manassas (or Bull Run). The war ended in Virginia when Lee surrendered to Grant at Appomattox Courthouse. Virginia provided some of the best Civil War generals: Lee and Jackson. Mom and I have begun visiting some of the Virginia battlefields. There are 120 battlefields and sites you can visit, so I don't think we'll get to all of them. But a few. The closer ones.

Virginia Museum of the Civil War

Statue of Stonewall Jackson in front of the museum

The Virginia Museum of the Civil War is located in New Market, about 1.5 hours away. It is the only state-owned Civil War museum in Virginia. It includes the site of the Battle of New Market. There is a separate visitor's center and museum for New Market. It was closed on the day we visited (Sunday), which was okay because there was plenty to see at the Virginia museum. In fact, we didn't have enough time there. We'll have to return to watch the 45 minute movie and visit the New Market museum and visitor's center.

Inside the two story museum

Sculpture of soldiers with flag

Diorama showing Civil War uniforms

There was much to take in at the Virginia Civil War museum. There is a 28-foot stained glass mural depicting the Shenandoah Valley during the Civil War. It features the names of the ten VMI cadets who were killed in the Battle of New Market. The art gallery features various pieces of art pertaining to the Civil War. There is a separate gun gallery featuring Civil War firearms. There were many artifacts and immersive exhibits. Overall, it was an excellent museum and educational experience, albeit with a Virginia (Confederate) slant. The museum's only downfall was not being handicapped accessible, though the staff made it possible for Mom to visit the exhibits on the lower floor.

Jefferson statue in front of the stained glass mural

Stained glass mural, c. 1969

Minie balls

One of the paintings in the art gallery

Mom at the museum

Virginia is for lovers

The Highlands: Scotland 2.0

After I had to cancel my 2024 tour of the Highlands (5 days) due to Covid, I was determined to schedule another tour, this time a longer one. So, I did. I booked the 9-day Rabbies tour: Isle of Skye, Iona, Mull, and the Orkney Isles. 

Small group tour

Map of our travels

It was actually two tours back-to-back. Two different tour guides. Different people each part. Seven of us did the whole 9-day tour. Since I didn't have anyone to travel with for this trip, I decided to try a group tour (16 people). There were pros and cons with this decision.

Cows and sheep, everywhere

They lift this stone during their local Highland Games.

Scotland is very dog friendly. The most popular breed is the Border Collie, native to the border of Scotland and England. Ty would have loved Scotland. Lots of water to play in. Big open spaces. He  would have been welcome on the ferries and beaches, probably other places, too. Too bad there isn't a way to take him on these international trips. He'll have to settle for our 5 day dog trips, maybe Newfoundland.

Dog friendly

He would have

Traveling with a group

For my trip to the Scottish Highlands, I chose to take a 9-day Rabbies tour that included Isle of Skye, Iona, Mull, and the Orkney Isles. It was actually two tours in one. Halfway through (in Inverness), we switched guides/drivers, said goodbye to some of our travel mates, and welcomed nine new people for the journey north.

First group with tour guide Dave (3rd from left, back)

We traveled in a passenger van that seated 16 people. The seats were narrow, but otherwise comfortable. The first group of travelers included 5 solo travelers, including myself, and people from Australia, China, and Germany, as well as the US. The US travelers had diverse backgrounds, including ethnicity, e.g., Singapore, India, and China/Vietnam. The second group included eight Americans (from the South) who already knew each other, as well as a nice widow lady from New Zealand. 

Second group with tour guide Andrew (R)

We had two good tour guides/drivers. The guide for the first half of the tour was Dave. I really liked him. He had a bold, assertive personality. He was an exceptional guide, really knew his history. Andrew was the guide for the second half of the tour. He was more soft spoken and low-key. In his spare time, Andrew liked to sit on the beach and do nothing. Dave liked to climb mountains. That sums up how different they were.

Our last night together

Seven of us did the whole 9-day tour and developed a good rapport. Overall, I preferred the people from the first half of the tour. The Indian couple (from California) seated in front of the picture below were especially nice. Hillery, a young Chinese/Vietnamese women from LA, was very sweet. Avrin (sp?), an anesthesiologist originally from Singapore, was interesting and outgoing. 

Selfie at Eileen Donan castle
(L-R, Avrin, Sam, me, Hillery, and Esther)

The Australian couple raised sheep (Dorpers) and were extremely likable. From the first group, there were two recently divorced ladies (Sam from Chicago and Esther from Iowa), traveling solo, who were great travel mates. Their presence was missed the second half.

Staying in the Highlands

When I signed up for the 9-day tour of the Highlands with Rabbies, I had two choices for accommodations:  hotel or bed and breakfast. I chose the latter. Not only are B&B's cheaper, but they are more personal. I'm not sure why I was booked into a hotel in Kirkwall (Orkney) for two nights.   

Where I stayed

Alltavona Guest House (2 nights in Oban)

My room was lovely

Hillview Bed & Breakfast (2 nights in Plockton)

Another lovely room

Braeside Guest House (1 night in Inverness)

I had three beds to choose from.

Breakfast table

Albert Hotel (2 nights in Kirkwall)

Not as nice as the B&B's

Harbour House B&B (1 night in Ullapool)

More like a Hotel

For the first and last nights of my trip I stayed in Edinburgh. I chose a youth hostel (the CoDE) on the Royal Mile (in Parliament Square), near the Adam Smith statue. It was a sleeping pod (capsule), with shared bathrooms and other spaces. A hostel was a new experience for me, though it was similar to the City Hub, where Lara and I stayed last year in Reykjavik. 

The CoDE (1st and last night in Edinburgh)

The CoDE was inside a 19th century former courthouse and jail in the heart of Edinburgh's Old Town. Besides price, I chose it for its location; it was close to the castle. I was attending the Military Tattoo (in the castle) and didn't want to have to walk far after the performance. My room (all female) had eight sleeping pods. I had a top bunk on the first night, a bottom bunk on the last night. All in all, it was a pleasant place to stay. The pod offered privacy, the bed was comfy, and the place was quiet. And, did I mention, convenient?

Old jail

My sleeping pod (capsule)