Most contested town of the Civil War

Mom and I have been visiting Civil War Battlefields of late. I was looking for another one. Not too far away. It needed to have a visitor's center. I googled. The Third Winchester Battlefield came up. It was less than an hour away, so we went. The relatively new visitor's center was very nice, quite accommodating for a wheel chair. There was a diorama of the battle and several movies. We learned a lot, as we always do.

Winchester Battlefield Visitor Center

National Park Stamp

Winchester was the most contested town in the American Civil War, changing hands dozens of times and serving as the site of three major battles, along with other nearby engagements. The first (May 25, 1862) and second battles (June 13-15, 1863) were won by the Confederates (Jackson and Ewell, respectively). The third battle (September 19, 1964) was won by the Union and was part of Sherman's successful campaign against Jubal Early. 

Replica cannon

Sketch showing the anguish of war

The Third Winchester was one of the largest, bloodiest, and most important battles in the Shenandoah Valley. Two Confederate generals were killed and four were wounded. Participants in the battle included George Armstrong Custer, two future presidents, a former vice president of the US, and the grandfather of General George S. Patton (KIA). Thomas Laws was an enslaved man who delivered secret messages between Sherman and a Unionist civilian. He is honored at the battlefield for his courage.

Well-known participants in Winchester battles.

Statue honoring Thomas Laws

In 2020, they decided to remove Confederate statues from Richmond's Capitol Square (finally). Two of the last to leave were Dr. Hunter Holmes McGuire and Governor William “Extra Billy” Smith. Both were recently relocated to the Winchester Battlefield. In fact, all of the statues have been given to the Shenandoah Valley Battlefields Foundation. Dr. McGuire was a surgeon in the Confederate Army attached to Stonewall Jackson's command. I read about him. While he did some good things (medically), he was a life-long white supremacist and perpetrator of the "Lost Cause" myth. Smith was a Major General in the Confederate Army, the oldest to serve in the field. This guy was pretty damned racist, too. 

Dr. Hunter Holmes McGuire

William “Extra Billy” Smit

Two locks

It was a picture-perfect, early fall day. Ty and I went to Dam 5 of the C&O Canal for a hike (walk). Dam 5 is currently under construction and was fenced off. There was a detour around the lockhouse, to get to the towpath. We headed in the direction of Locks 45 and 46. We walked farther than we had before, past the cliff. After awhile, the path opened up to Lock 46 and Lockhouse 46. There was also construction at Lock 46. The lockhouse was boarded up. While it appears well-preserved, it's not one you can stay at. 

Two Locks

Detour at Dam 5 Lockhouse 45 (such vivid colors!)

Blue waters of the Potomac

My hiking buddy Ty

Cliff ledge

Member of the Aster family

Lock 45

Steep limestone cliffs

Locks 45 and 46 were collectively known as "Two Locks." The pair is situated in an area where steep limestone cliffs along the Potomac River made digging a canal channel nearly impossible and definitely too expensive. Instead engineers used Dam 5 to back up the Potomac River and create a calm channel (called the slackwater) where the boats could safety travel. Lock 46 served as a transition point where mules switched from the river towpath back onto the canal towpath. There are structural remains of the historic mule bridge at Lock 46.

Lockhouse 46

Arched culvert at Lock 46

Lock 46

A scenic path along the cliffs

Honeysuckle (invasive) berries

Danger Dam!

Ty hanging out at Lock 46

Shelf fungi growing on a dead log

Gray rock -- no more graffiti

Dead logs

Peace

River access for Ty

Meem's Bottom Covered Bridge

Whenever I have the opportunity to photograph a covered bridge, I take it. Mom and I had just left New Market Civil War Battlefield when we saw a sign for a covered bridge. The bridge wasn't far. We headed towards it. It was Meem's Bottom Covered Bridge, named after the Meems family, large landholders in the area.

Newest bridge, c. 1892

At 204 feet, Meem's Bottom Covered Bridge is the longest covered bridge in Virginia. There are only seven covered bridges left standing in Virginia. It is believed that there were at least two other bridges before the current one was built in 1892. The first bridge was likely burned in 1862 by Stonewall Jackson. The second was washed away by floodwaters in 1870.

You can still drive through it.

Built and rebuilt

The bridge was listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 1975.  I never did find the historical marker. The bridge was burned by vandals (on Halloween) in 1976 and put back into service in 1979. 

Pretty road leading to the bridge

Out for a Sunday drive

Civil War Virginia

Forty-three percent of American Civil War battles were fought in the state of Virginia. The first land battle was fought in Virginia: First Manassas (or Bull Run). The war ended in Virginia when Lee surrendered to Grant at Appomattox Courthouse. Virginia provided some of the best Civil War generals: Lee and Jackson. Mom and I have begun visiting some of the Virginia battlefields. There are 120 battlefields and sites you can visit, so I don't think we'll get to all of them. But a few. The closer ones.

Virginia Museum of the Civil War

Statue of Stonewall Jackson in front of the museum

The Virginia Museum of the Civil War is located in New Market, about 1.5 hours away. It is the only state-owned Civil War museum in Virginia. It includes the site of the Battle of New Market. There is a separate visitor's center and museum for New Market. It was closed on the day we visited (Sunday), which was okay because there was plenty to see at the Virginia museum. In fact, we didn't have enough time there. We'll have to return to watch the 45 minute movie and visit the New Market museum and visitor's center.

Inside the two story museum

Sculpture of soldiers with flag

Diorama showing Civil War uniforms

There was much to take in at the Virginia Civil War museum. There is a 28-foot stained glass mural depicting the Shenandoah Valley during the Civil War. It features the names of the ten VMI cadets who were killed in the Battle of New Market. The art gallery features various pieces of art pertaining to the Civil War. There is a separate gun gallery featuring Civil War firearms. There were many artifacts and immersive exhibits. Overall, it was an excellent museum and educational experience, albeit with a Virginia (Confederate) slant. The museum's only downfall was not being handicapped accessible, though the staff made it possible for Mom to visit the exhibits on the lower floor.

Jefferson statue in front of the stained glass mural

Stained glass mural, c. 1969

Minie balls

One of the paintings in the art gallery

Mom at the museum

Virginia is for lovers

The Highlands: Scotland 2.0

After I had to cancel my 2024 tour of the Highlands (5 days) due to Covid, I was determined to schedule another tour, this time a longer one. So, I did. I booked the 9-day Rabbies tour: Isle of Skye, Iona, Mull, and the Orkney Isles. 

Non stop Washington to Edinburgh ($1,153.93)

9-day tour of the Highlands and Islands ($1,406.70)

Small group tour with Rabbies

Royal Bank of Scotland £10 Note

It was actually two tours back-to-back. Two different tour guides. Different people each part. Seven of us did the whole 9-day tour. Since I didn't have anyone to travel with for this trip, I decided to try a group tour (16 people). There were pros and cons with this decision.

Cows and sheep, everywhere

They lift this stone during their local Highland Games.

Viking totem pole on Orkney

Favorite souvenirs: Highland cows, sheep, and Nessie

Scotland is very dog friendly. The most popular breed is the Border Collie, native to the border of Scotland and England. Ty would have loved Scotland. Lots of water to play in. Big open spaces. He  would have been welcome on the ferries and beaches, probably other places, too. Too bad there isn't a way to take him on these international trips. He'll have to settle for our 5 day dog trips, maybe Newfoundland.

Dog friendly

He would have