Third Winchester Battlefield

Mom and I have been visiting Civil War Battlefields of late. I was looking for another one, not too far away. It needed to have a visitor's center. I googled. The Third Winchester Battlefield came up. It was less than an hour away, so we went. The relatively new visitor's center was very nice, quite accommodating for a wheel chair. There was a diorama of the battle and several movies. We learned a lot, as we always do.

Winchester Battlefield Visitor Center

Winchester was the most contested town in the American Civil War, changing hands dozens of times and serving as the site of three major battles, along with other nearby engagements. The first (May 25, 1862) and second battles (June 13-15, 1863) were won by the Confederates (Jackson and Ewell, respectively). The third battle (September 19, 1964) was won by the Union and was part of Sherman's successful campaign against Jubal Early. 

Replica cannon

Sketch showing the anguish of war

The Third Winchester was one of the largest, bloodiest, and most important battles in the Shenandoah Valley. Two Confederate generals were killed and four were wounded. Participants in the battle included George Armstrong Custer, two future presidents, a former vice president, and the grandfather  (KIA) of General George S. Patton. Thomas Laws was an enslaved man who delivered secret messages between Sherman and a Unionist civilian. He is honored at the battlefield for his courage.

Well-known participants in Winchester battles.

Statue honoring Thomas Laws

Mom learning about the Third Winchester

In 2020, they decided to remove Confederate statues from Richmond's Capitol Square (finally). Two of the last to leave were Dr. Hunter Holmes McGuire and Governor William “Extra Billy” Smith. Both were recently relocated to the Winchester Battlefield. In fact, all of the Richmond statues have been given to the Shenandoah Valley Battlefields Foundation. 

Dr. Hunter Holmes McGuire

William “Extra Billy” Smith

Dr. McGuire was a surgeon in the Confederate Army attached to Stonewall Jackson's command. I read about him. While he did some good things (medically), he was a life-long white supremacist and perpetrator of the "Lost Cause" myth. Smith was a Major General in the Confederate Army, the oldest to serve in the field. This guy was pretty damned racist, too. Neither should be celebrated publicly.  Instead of using taxpayer dollars to maintain them on battlefields, I think they should have been given to their families to do with what they want.

Civil War Virginia

Forty-three percent of American Civil War battles were fought in the state of Virginia. The first land battle was fought in Virginia: First Manassas (or Bull Run). The war ended in Virginia when Lee surrendered to Grant at Appomattox Courthouse. Virginia provided some of the best Civil War generals: Lee and Jackson. Mom and I have begun visiting some of the Virginia battlefields. There are 120 battlefields and sites you can visit, so I don't think we'll get to all of them. But a few. The closer ones.

Virginia Museum of the Civil War

Statue of Stonewall Jackson in front of the museum

The Virginia Museum of the Civil War is located in New Market, about 1.5 hours away. It is the only state-owned Civil War museum in Virginia. It includes the site of the Battle of New Market. There is a separate visitor's center and museum for New Market. It was closed on the day we visited (Sunday), which was okay because there was plenty to see at the Virginia museum. In fact, we didn't have enough time there. We'll have to return to watch the 45 minute movie and visit the New Market museum and visitor's center.

Inside the two story museum

Sculpture of soldiers with flag

Diorama showing Civil War uniforms

There was much to take in at the Virginia Civil War museum. There is a 28-foot stained glass mural depicting the Shenandoah Valley during the Civil War. It features the names of the ten VMI cadets who were killed in the Battle of New Market. The art gallery features various pieces of art pertaining to the Civil War. There is a separate gun gallery featuring Civil War firearms. There were many artifacts and immersive exhibits. Overall, it was an excellent museum and educational experience, albeit with a Virginia (Confederate) slant. The museum's only downfall was not being handicapped accessible, though the staff made it possible for Mom to visit the exhibits on the lower floor.

Jefferson statue in front of the stained glass mural

Stained glass mural, c. 1969

Minie balls

One of the paintings in the art gallery

Mom at the museum

Virginia is for lovers

Battle of Cedar Creek

Before today, I knew nothing about the Civil War Battle of Cedar Creek -- or at least nothing I could remember. Mom and I had seen a sign for it when we were driving 81 North after having visited the Manassas (Bull Run) Battlefield last week. So, we went today. It was a fairly scenic drive through the Virginia Countryside. On the way, we stopped and ate at a tasty Greek restaurant in Berryville. 

National Park stamps

The visitor's center was located in a strip mall (that was a first). Sadly the AC was on the fritz -- and it was a very steamy day. The park ranger on duty was very friendly and informative.  We enjoyed talking to him. There were few visitors so we were able to monopolize his time. An electric map detailed the battle. The battlefield itself spans several counties. We did a bit of the driving tour. 

Electric map of battlefield

Sheridan arrives

Important spot

The Battle of Cedar Creek (also called Belle Grove) was fought on October 19, 1864 near Middletown, Virginia. It was a decisive victory for the Union. After a surprise dawn attack from Confederate General Jubal Early put the Union army into a chaotic retreat, Major General Philip Sherman rode in from Winchester, rallied his regrouped troops, and launched a powerful offensive that crushed Confederate forces. The battle proved to be pivotal, as it ended Confederate resistance in the Shenandoah Valley, crippled Southern supply lines, and provided the morale boost needed to get Lincoln reelected. 

Fatal halt

Miller property where Confederates made their last stand

Belle Grove Plantation served as Sheridan's headquarters. The property was at the center of action during the Cedar Creek Battle. Initially, Belle Grove was the home of Revolutionary War Officer Major Isaac Hite and his wife Nelly Madison Hite, sister of President James Madison. Today it is part of Cedar Creek and Belle Grove National Historic Park.

Belle Grove Plantation, c. 1797

Belle Grove was the largest slaveholder in the Shenandoah Valley

Historic mansion influence by Thomas Jefferson

Enslaved burial ground

Historic marker:  Pioneer settler of the Shenandoah Valley

Two Civil War Battlefields in One

The year Dad died, Mom and I visited many Civil War sites. We've been back to Gettysburg many times since and Antietam once or twice. Not sure why we hadn't visited Manassas National Battlefield Park (in Virginia) yet. It's not much farther than Gettysburg. So we went today. Unfortunately it's not the most pleasant drive (maybe that's why) since it's so close to DC. I tried to go back roads on the way down, but took a wrong turn. We took 66 and 81 on the way back. We had dinner at the "world's oldest" Long John Silvers. Ugh!

National Park stamps

Also known as the Battle of Bull Run

The visitor's center was nice, though not very accommodating to people with disabilities. There was an informative museum, gift shop, and 45 minute film. We learned much. I left Mom in the gift shop, while I explored the grounds (Henry Hill) a bit. Afterwards, we drove to a few places. I'd like to go back to do the whole driving tour. Maybe, take Ty with me. 

Henry House (built after war, c. 1870)

The Henry House on Henry Hill was the epicenter of battle in the first battle of Manassas. Refusing to leave her bed, an 85-year old invalid woman (Judith Henry) became the first civilian casualty of the Civil War. Her grave site is in front of the house. The original 1812 dwelling was destroyed in the war. A new structure was built on its foundation in 1870. It served as the park's initial visitor's center.

Henry Hill

Judith Henry grave

Honoring the dead

First Civil War monument

The First Battle of Manassas (Bull Run) was the first major (land) battle of the American Civil War. It was fought on July 21, 1861, just months after the start of the war at Fort Sumter. Troops on both sides were naïve and poorly trained and led. Their uniforms were all different colors. While people traveled from Washington DC to watch the war (from about 5 miles away), expecting a Union victory, it was after this battle that both sides realized that the war was going to be longer and bloodier than anyone thought. The human cost ended up being more than anyone could have imagined: 1.5 million casualties.

Henry Hill

Where he fell

Can you imagine?

The stone house survived the Civil War and was restored to its war-time appearance in the 1960s. During the first and second battles of Manassas, the house provided combat cover and shelter and served as an aid station and field hospital.  It was built somewhere around 1848 as a tavern for wagoneers and travelers. 

Stone House, c. ~1848

Old Stone House marker

Casualties were significantly higher in the Second Battle of Manassas. It was a decisive victory for the Confederates and cleared the way for Robert E. Lee's invasion of the North. Of course, we all know how that turned out. Union victories at Antietam and Gettysburg changed the trajectory of the war.

Site of fierce fighting in the 2nd Battle of Manassas

One of three monuments to New York troops

The Stone Bridge is one of several historical landmarks on the Manassas National Battlefield. Originally built in 1825, it was a critical crossing point and escape route during both the first and second battles. It was destroyed in 1862 and rebuilt in 1884.

Stone Bridge signage

Stone Bridge (c. 1825, rebuilt 1884) over Bull Run 

The other side of the bridge

The Sons of Confederate Veterans established Manassas Battlefield as a Confederate Park in 1924. Their purpose was to glorify the Confederacy. They turned the land over to the National Park Service in 1936 on the stipulation that the state of Virginia be allowed to erect a monument to Confederate General "Stonewall" Jackson.  Jackson earned his famous nickname at the first Battle of Manassas, as his brigade made a firm stand against Union forces. The statue is considered to be historically and physically inaccurate.

The war over memory

Like a Stone Wall

This was the first southern battlefield I've visited. There are many more battlefields in Virginia to explore. Approximately 43 percent of all Civil War battles were fought in Virginia, due to its proximity to Richmond.