Bunnies at the Baalands

I raised rabbits as a 4-Her. I had a few rabbits when I lived in Salisbury. Ever since I visited the rabbit research facility in Toulouse, France (in 2012), I have wanted to get rabbits. Finally (in retirement), I took the plunge.

I got my first rabbits in April of last year: two New Zealand White does and a Silver Fox buck. A couple of months later, I drove several hours into Virginia to get a trio of New Zealand Reds. Later in the year, I got two Silver Fox does and a New Zealand White buck. None of the latter three are old enough for breeding yet. All of the rabbits are pedigreed. I currently have trios of New Zealand White, New Zealand Red, and Silver Fox. This is my plan. I figure I'll need 18 cages for the 6 breeding does. I plan to breed the does four times per year.

Bertha and Alice - New Zealand White does

Initially, I bred the New Zealand White does (Alice and Bertha) to the Silver Fox buck (Sylvester). This is proving to be a good cross. Alice has already raised two litters (9, 6). Bertha lost her first litter and has since raised a litter of 9. The New Zealand Red does (Stella and Emma) took a few times before they conceived. Stella's first litter was 11. One died when it was several weeks old. Stella produced her first litter on the third try, and is currently raising a litter of 8 (1 died). Harry is the sire of the New Zealand Red bunnies.

I decided to dig deep into my pockets and buy high quality cages and accessories for my rabbitry. Initially, I bought six cages (24 x 36) from KW Cages in California. The next eight cages I bought came from Bass Equipment in Missouri. While still expensive, they are much more economical than the KW cages, and I like them just as well. Four of these cages are 30 x 30 (a little too deep for reaching rabbits). The other four are 36 x 30 for does to raise their bunnies in. 

The Bass cages have bunny saver wire along the bottoms instead of urine guards. I decided this was a mistake:  too messy. I've ordered urine guards and plan to install them on all the Bass cages. The KW cages came with urine guards, as well as deeper refuse trays. I up charge all my cage purchases to get heavier duty wire, galvanize after welding, and plastic poly trays. I stack the cages two-high and put castors on the stacks. Wheels are good and bad. The cages are easier to move, but the rabbits also cause the cages to move around too much. 

I have two more cages (24 x 36) on order from Bass and two "nurture cages" on order from KW. The latter two are quite pricy, but provide more space and enrichment for does and their bunnies. Besides being 48 x 28 in size, they have a raised platform. They come with nest boxes that attach to the side of the cage, providing a more "natural" burrowing experience for the does.

First New Zealand Red litter (Stella)

My feeders are Pro-B Feed Saver feeders from Bass. They are flush with the cage and are supposed to reduce feed waste. Rabbits are notorious for digging their paws in the feeders and scooping feed out. These feeders seems to be preventing this. I have an assortment of watering receptacles. Originally, I was going to use water bottles, but decided to use water dishes that attach to the side of the cages instead. They say rabbits prefer drinking from bowls.

I bought two creep feeders, but the kits don't seem to eat much out of them. Instead they eat from their mother's feeders or out of my homemade feeders: large bowls with a PVC cap in the middle to prevent them from sitting in the feeders and contaminating them with urine and feces. I also use homemade hay feeders that I attach to the outside of the cages. These are made from plastic containers that I get from Walmart. I got the idea from a YouTube video. I bought wooden nest boxes from a local 4-Her, who makes them with his dad.

Since the rabbits have to spend their entire lives living in wire cages, I am trying to provide them with a more enriched environment. I follow the research on this. Each cage has a resting board. I give each rabbit a wooden dowel to chew on. The hay also satisfies their need to chew, while being a good addition to their diet. I'm experimenting with providing the rabbits, especially the young ones, with "toys" to play with (round balls that  make noise: cat toys). 

I've also filled toilet paper rolls with hay to give to the rabbits, especially the bunnies. They seem to like them, without making too much of a mess. My next project is to add a jumping platform to the cages. I have an exercise area (filled with hay) on the garage floor that I can let the rabbits explore individually. Mostly, I put the bucks in the pen. They are more docile and trustworthy than the does. I'm also planning to grow hydroponic fodder to off fresh green forage.

The first cage purchases

I haven't figured out my marketing yet. I sold a few rabbits from the first litter before putting the rest into the freezer. There is a processor in Martinsburg, WV, that will process rabbits for $5 a head. I've sold several of the New Zealand Red bunnies for breeding, but currently have rabbits from several litters that will need to be sold for meat. Facebook helps with live sales of rabbits for breeding. I need to contact some live buyers for the meat bunnies. The ease of marketing will dictate how my rabbit enterprise evolves. I'm hoping to make money with my little enterprise, but I know it may prove to be difficult. In 2023, the rabbit expenditures helped to offset the sheep income (for tax purposes).